Saturday, January 02, 2010

The Hairdryer's behind the Chainsaw: Part 3





The Pont du Gard has been on my 'must see' list for a very long time and it totally lived up to my expectations. In some ways it is unfortunate that it has now become a major tourist attraction in the region -- however, on the other hand without this interest it would probably deteriorate and be lost to us forever. It was wonderful to be able to be able to walk across and back again. I was not feeling up to the hike up to the top of the aqueduct, though I probably should have made the effort (in hindsight!!).

As we arrived toward the end of the season we were not overwhelmed with an onslaught of tourists, though there were still many around -- including a bridal party posing for posterity.

It was a perfect day for this excursion -- neither too hot nor too warm. The tourist site is attractively situated and the walk from the entrance to the bridge is pleasant and not too long. Because it was the end of a hot and dry summer the water level of the Gard was extremely low, and it is hard to imagine the wild torrents of water that are said to flow from the mountains in the early Spring. The river bed is white limestone and tends to look more like snow that rock. The engineering logistics of the aquaduct are as impressive as any in our world of engineering feats and a testament to the time when Rome ruled the known world. I hope I get to go back there again one day.

If it were up to me and if time were not closing in on us I would have lingered there for longer. I had already had to give up all hope of seeing Avignon though we did drive along the edge of the ancient city and around and about to get onto the route to Apt, where we had decided to spend the night. Once thing is certain, there is no town in Provence that is easy to drive through! We chose a rather modern looking hotel, which proved to be very comfortable and provided a very nice breakfast -- it was convenient to the entrance of the old town and parking was not a problem. Unfortunately, we did not have the best luck with our choice of restaurant -- that was very disappointing and quite expensive for what we got. We had seen another restaurant/creperie which we found so quickly that we rejected it -- silly mistake. The restaurant we chose was open to the outside and had nasty little tiny bugs that were impossible to escape.

The next day, Sunday, we found some fresh bread and headed for Italy ...

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Tuesday, October 13, 2009

The Hairdryer's behind the Chainsaw!


In mid-September we left Aynac for an all too brief tour around Europe -- through Provence, into Italy, north to Germany via Austria, and home across Luxembourg via Boulogne-sur-Mer. In 10 days! As is usual with our travel plans we had built into the trip an immovable date, that being son Andrew's birthday on the 22nd. Therefore, we could not take an extra day or two which would have been welcome for me as we weren't really able to explore Provence as we might have otherwise done. But still I did get a second chance to explore Nimes somewhat successfully and I did walk across the Pont du Gard!

But our first great sighting was not the old bridge in Remoulins, but the new viaduct in Millau! What a brillian wonderful beautiful bridge! It's a great huge sailing ship across the Tarn Valley, it really is. First we stopped by the special Aire created for the crowds to stop and take pictures. I really was a boob, but the wind was blowing fiercely and I really didn't feel like trudging up the wind blown path to be bowled over by nature, thank you very much -- and besides it was nippy outside and I'd gotten very cozy and comfortable. As I do feel rather an idiot to have been so inclined, nevertheless it is absolutely a wonderful site and I live in hope there will be a 'next time'.

Languedoc is very beautiful and although we travelled on the motorway there were many tempting old towns and villages along the way -- La Couvertoirade, par example: "This mediaeval village, located at the confines of the Larzac plateau, reflects the military power of the Templar Knights and the daily activity of the Hospitaliers (Knights of
Saint John of Jerusalem), through its exceptional state of conservation. Classed as a Most Beautiful French Village, La Couvertoirade constitutes a veritable "miniature" of the mediaeval city. Few mediaeval sites in France ..." Right up my street, but we travelled on determined to get to Provence and to find a place for the night before dark.

And so we did ... a look at the map and Neil headed for the town of Sommieres, which looked enough off the beaten track to be interesting and so it was. We stayed in a hotel that had been the railroad station in days gone by and which had an authentic feel to it. The room was small and rather disappointing and there was no elevator, but the place itself was pleasant and the staff friendly enough. The owner, I believe, recommended a restaurant, which was very good, in the middle of the walled city. This medieval town was on a river and the bridge we drove over had been around since Roman times. We had to leave early the next morning, which was a shame as it was market day.

The restaurant was practically empty when we entered -- we have found it a good idea to get to French restaurants before 8.00 as we tend to get our orders in well before the rush. And indeed there was a rush as the tables were suddenly gone. A lovely Italian couple who lived in Switzerland sat next to us and we had a fun conversation -- but they were very patient with our stilted French and it was fun to talk to some fellow travellers.

We left the restaurant well fed and well cheered, a quick drive to our hotel and one of us was soon snoring and the other periodically getting up and discovering the stars were bigger than I'd ever seen them -- kind of like Van Gogh painted them in Arles!

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